Walking Day 13 Rabanal to Molinaseca – 24.7 km – 15.5 miles

Last evening my companions and I attended Vespers in a small Benedictine monastery in Rabanal. Gregorian chant - (the real thing) - they’ve been doing it in this 12^th century chapel every evening for 900 years.  Ethereal, absolutely ethereal.

I savored every step this morning. Leaving Rabanal was an easy uphill walk in cool clear air. The hills were purple with heather and wild lavender.

Four miles up the road is the village of Foncebadon – the famed abandoned village in Shirley MacLaine’s book with the mythic vicious wild dogs.  Arriving in the town, it was clear that 15 years of Camino revival have been good to Foncebadon.  I counted 2 albergues, 3 restaurants, a small store, and a coffee bar with free Wi-Fi.  A skinny feral cat was the wildest, most vicious thing there.

Moving on up the trail, there was the famed Iron Cross, surrounded with rocks brought by pilgrims from their homes. Leaving them on this hill symbolizes releasing the burdens and sins of one’s life.  It was a big pile on a big hill. Thankfully I arrived just as the busload of German tourists was departing. 

And from there, it was all downhill.  A 3,000 foot drop over 9 miles.
Steep.  With rocks. 

A big juicy fresh slice of Hell.

For nearly 7 hours I picked my way gingerly down that hill, knowing one false move and I would go down, and it was gonna hurt. Crazed demons on mountain bikes blew through at random intervals.  Focused concentration got me through it.

I’d consumed all my water, the mid day sun was blazing, and then, there it was – the spire of the church in Molinaseca.  One hundred more steps, and I was on flat pavement.     Exhale.

I raised my walking stick and let out a triumphant yell that echoed off the surrounding hills, and I walked across that 13^th century bridge into Molinaseca like a conqueror.