Santiago de Compostela – Finisterre - Friday May 20th

I went to the End of the Earth today.

The morning started foggy and cool in Santiago. 

There are now double the number of young people having their sit-in and sleep-in protest in the square in front of the cathedral today.  One young man was playing guitar, and a little while later a young woman spoke from a bullhorn.  I love a good protest rally.  This one seems quite earnest, yet cheerful, and the solo police officer in the far corner of the square seems like a lonely chaperone.

At noon I went to the Pilgrim’s Mass at the cathedral – standing room only – I found a spot to sit on the floor to the side and marveled at the pageantry in this huge place.  From my vantage point, I noted the footwear – stylish Spanish women in nice shoes, hiking boots with a few hundred miles of wear and dust, bandaged toes sticking out from sandals. 

I confess I got a little teary when the priests blessed the pilgrims.

After Mass, I hopped in my car and headed west to Finisterre, about a 2 hour drive.  This is the western-most point of land on the continent of Europe - the mythic place where you would fall off the planet if you went beyond the horizon. The King and Queen of Spain ended their pilgrimage here in 1490, and 2 years later, they boldly subverted the dominant paradigm by funding the voyage of Columbus. 

The weather cleared, and as I stood on the rocky bluff next to the lighthouse, I could see the curvature of the earth.  On an outcropping just above the lighthouse, there is a 10 foot high 4 x 4 inch pole, and on each of its 4 sides, in a different language, it simply says:

    

‘May Peace Prevail on Earth.’

Truly, when you get to the end of the road, there’s nothing left to do but turn around.

My alarm is set for 3:45 in the morning. 

I’m going home.